Rich Parker,

Sorry to be so late with a reply to your question.

I got my latch clamps at Harbor Freight.

Jerry

I went in to Harbor Freight, but they didn't have any. I ended up buying some toggle clamps off of Amazon that look similar. I hope to have the casters and clamps installed this weekend, so i can get some cookin done.
 
It's a true Weber grate, but I have about 3/4 inch all the way around on my UDS. I think I used 1 1/2 inch screws. I should probably go to 2 or 2 1/2 inches. I only used 3 so that might have something to do with the problem at that short length.
 
Just for the heck of it I added a grate 4 inches above the top of the charcoal basket and put a foiled pan I had left over from an old Brinkman I got rid of years ago on it. I think I like this WSM type set up a little better than the drippings landing on the wood and coals. I've had a 17.3 lb brisket on since 6:30 this morning and it's stayed right around 245 with three plugs out, and I don't miss the burned grease smell like before.
 
I had no idea about the store bought sauce until my brother-in-law pointed it out to me! I did use my own dry rub however. I fiqured I had enough to worry about than the sauce for the trial run.
 
Blasphemy!:biggrin:
Yeah I know, I started to keep the dirty little idea to myself, but it slipped out. I realize the idea of the UDS is the added flavor of the drippings hitting the coals, but this is an option to consider. I am really pleased with the brisket, it seems to have a "cleaner" taste for lack of a better word. I may still cook ribs without the pan, but for the meats that produce a lot of drippings, like butts, briskets and chickens, I will probably stick with the pan.
 
Well, the smoker is almost done, the basket is 15" X 6" with 1 1/2' legs. My drum is only 43 1/2" tall and that is leaving me very little room. What is the consensus on a safe amount of room between the lid and the cooking grate? 24" from the basket leaves me with 2"...


Just a thought, would gun blue help prevent the bottom of the drum from rusting down the line?


Dave
 
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Yeah I know, I started to keep the dirty little idea to myself, but it slipped out. I realize the idea of the UDS is the added flavor of the drippings hitting the coals, but this is an option to consider. I am really pleased with the brisket, it seems to have a "cleaner" taste for lack of a better word. I may still cook ribs without the pan, but for the meats that produce a lot of drippings, like butts, briskets and chickens, I will probably stick with the pan.

Keep in mind your fuel consumption will go up. With 3 plugs out, more air=more fuel.
 
Little help please, I built my UDS and took it for a maiden voyage, pork butt came out better than I ever tasted. Problem was I wasn’t sure on air control and with all plugs 3 ¾ and one inch ball valve all close, top vent wide open I had a temp of 350 and couldn’t get it down. If I opened a bottom valve the temp would rise higher. Do I need to have bottom feed air from the start to get the 230 range temps you guys are getting. My temps were with two different thermometers. Fire basket about 3 inches off bottom vent holes about 2 ½ inches.
 
How did you start your fire? If you close the top vent will the fire go out completely within a short time? Post picks of lid set up.
 
Heat deflector

Yeah I know, I started to keep the dirty little idea to myself, but it slipped out. I realize the idea of the UDS is the added flavor of the drippings hitting the coals, but this is an option to consider. I am really pleased with the brisket, it seems to have a "cleaner" taste for lack of a better word. I may still cook ribs without the pan, but for the meats that produce a lot of drippings, like butts, briskets and chickens, I will probably stick with the pan.

PM JD McGee-he's got a couple drums he's using a claypot base for a heat sink, and I've seen them in action and even though I feel it is blasphemy to stray from the UDS vision-some folks aren't used to the "old grandpaw" flavor so hey have a party! It produced some fine eatin'!
 
I started reading this thread four days ago. You guys have really outdone yourself. I started looking for drums on the first day i'm gonna need a pick up truck load of them to try all of the ideas that are fighting in my head.
I modified my Electric water smoker yesterday to try and use some of this information ( Wife is still angry about that one).
 
How did you start your fire? If you close the top vent will the fire go out completely within a short time? Post picks of lid set up.


I started the fire with a weed burner my top is the bottom of a wally world 40 buck BBQ with a crome electric stove burner plate adjusted with magnents

th_IMG_3381.jpg
 
I started the fire with a weed burner my top is the bottom of a wally world 40 buck BBQ with a crome electric stove burner plate adjusted with magnents

th_IMG_3381.jpg

Did you start more than this amount of coals? The high temp may have been too much burning coals at start.
IMG_0029.jpg


Again can you snuff out the fire? If you can't then you don't have control of the air so look for leaks.
 
it snuffs out fairely quick. Looking at your basket I think I may be tying to start with to much fire, its hard to tell how much you are starting with the weed burner. I will try next time just lighting a couple in the middle like you.
 
Keep in mind your fuel consumption will go up. With 3 plugs out, more air=more fuel.
My four intakes holes are 1/2 inch, most of the time 2-3 are usually what I leave open. Looked in it this morning and there's still quite a bit of fuel left and the oak wood pieces are completely gone. Before I would usually find a piece or two unburned because the drippings seemed to hamper the combustion.
 
I have gotten some PM's in the past where people have made incorrect or want to change the size hole they made in a drum. If you have ever tried to drill a large hole in thin metal you know that it does not make a clean round hole. It is even worse on a curved surface like a drum. You can get a bigger unibit which are either expensive or don't work very well or last. If you use a tool called a "Chassis punch or Knockout punch" it makes life very easy. A industrial quality punch will cost @$40 apiece but Harbor Freight sell a set that will work on drums for <$20. Here is a link and a link to a You Tube demo. The pilot hole does not have to be only slightly bigger as described. That is how they are designed but you can go bigger if you pay attention to centering and make sure it is shearing the metal as you tighten.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJpc5CeiAtQ&feature=related


DUDE........i have a buddy who has one of these. Its my understanding that a 3/4 inch close nipple, takes a 1" hole. Prob. is, the one inch knockout is actually 1 1/8th............the 3/4" knockout runs 7/8ths. So how did your work out to get the correct size hole?
 
I just used a 1" hole saw and a mandrel for it. Run it at slow RPM and give it a little oil for a lube and cuts fast and clean. Spin it fast and dry and you will grind the teeth right off it but slow and oiled it will last a long time.
 
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