u.d.s. vents????

T

tom9193

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i have decided to build my first u.d.s. i know all about the little lol , thread on here in which i've read a little over 100 pages and breezed thru a few more...i have all the info i need and have my basic design down but what i still don't know and would like to know is what's the best vest design??? 4 vents with 2 nipples capped with 2 ball valve or 3 vents with one nipple capped and 2 ball valves or etc etc ?????
 
I have 4 3/4" pipe nipples with one ball valve and 3 caps - I think I'm gonna go with 2 ball valves - if they were cheaper I'd run 4 ball valves........

If I build another one I think I'll do 2 larger intakes with 90* elbow and pipe riser- like 1" or 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" with ball valves at top of both.:confused: (Maybe....Lol)

Like this 2 times:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_kMSYwo-WC...AAAS0/fHRINeU5mvs/s200/Air+Intake+Upgrade.JPG
 
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I'm very happy with a single BGE sliding vent. Very easy to slide with your foot, can use it to clean out ashes if need be, and allows easy access for a wiggle rod.

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I'm using a Guru Party-Q now, so I've redesigned my UDS. 2 1" ball valves, & a 3/8" valve in the middle for the guru. I've used it several times now in the new configuration & it works like a charm. Good luck!
 

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I have a 3" makeshift daisy wheel and very pleased with temp range I get. No figuring out which cap, which valve to open or close. Just one to deal with.
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Three 3/4" holes

a bag of four electrical conduit plugs @ $1.25

or

3 magnets off your refridgerator - pricele$$
 
Cheap and easy way - four 1" holes with refrigerator strip magnets

As far as number and size of valves can depend on the valves you use. Some valves have very small ports and restrict flow, I recommend finding valves that are "full port" so they don't restrict flow as much. If you decide to put the elbows and pipe risers I would go with 1" as people say that length of pipe restricts flow more. Otherwise I prefer 3/4" with either 3 or 4 of them, I have never needed more than 2 but I don't cook hot and fast, yet. The 1" fittings make you drill a large hole in relatively thin metal and feels flimsy plus at that size the curvature of the barrel starts to show and my fittings don't fit flush.
 
wow nice cookers and good advise i think ill go with 4 3/4 inches holes 2 capped and 2 with the full port ball valves ill measure the total diameter of the barral and split it into 4ths and drill holes there 2 inches up from the bottom that should be enough air and control
 
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