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i was thinkin about the plate above charcoal basket too. if you used a 10" maybe ill run down to the old local pizza joint and ask if i can have an old 12" pizza pan and maybe a 16" too (im very much into tryin to scavange as many parts as possible so i can tell people i got less than $50 in it and produce great bbq) and try them mounted above my basket my next question is gonna be should i drill holes or not how big of holes and how many? or i'll just experament with them until i get a good balance. another thing is ill start mounting closest to the basket cuz i know aluminum doesnt hold heat so its more for the heat to go around ( and through if i drill holes). and yup i got the same $7 thermos on amazon .now i need to find the 12" thermo you got at walmart. was it lables a fryer thermometer candy thermometer or what? and how much? also after reading some more posts im gonna take my verticle pipe off and just run a valve off the nipple just to nip any drafting problems right in the bud. thanks for helpin me with my questions and being about the same experience with these uds' we can help each other with this
Here is my drum.

http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l480/pman777/IMG_1953.jpg

The thermometer on the left is the Walmart 12" thermometer. Walmart does not have it on their website. It is in several of the Walmarts in my Fayetteville, AR area. It sells for 4.99 and it's quite accurate. It was in the bbq grill accessories dept. The square looking framed part at the top of my thermometer is not a part of the thermomter. The part that looks like a square frame to the top of my thermometer is the outer brace for my ubolt system holding up my grate. The thermometer looks like this
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bayou-Classic-Stainless-Steel-Thermometer/11902779

only my thermometer doesn't have the red on the face. Check your local Walmart. I'm pretty sure it was only labeled Mainstays Thermometer. Mainstays is a Walmart brand name.

I'd definitely be interested in your feedback with larger plates. I'm going to wait until I get a change in the heat balance before I start drilling holes. I like to change only one variable at a time.
 
Looks good pman. If you put
around the photo links they will show up in the thread without having to click on them.
 
My New Drum Liner & Lid Question

Picked up this Drum off Craigs List $10.00 seem like a great buy. It had some oil for making hand lotion. The liner seems to just be paint to me i am guessing a good burn would do the trick to remove? I also panicked when I took the ring off and tried to put the lid back on the lid did not fit good at all....So i pulled the seal out of the lid and pushed it back on and BINGO it fit like a glove is this how they all do? Should I be worried ?

Drum1.JPG




Drum3.JPG


Drum2.JPG
 
Picked up this Drum off Craigs List $10.00 seem like a great buy. It had some oil for making hand lotion. The liner seems to just be paint to me i am guessing a good burn would do the trick to remove? I also panicked when I took the ring off and tried to put the lid back on the lid did not fit good at all....So i pulled the seal out of the lid and pushed it back on and BINGO it fit like a glove is this how they all do? Should I be worried ?


Long as you get it to seal. Drums get out of round easily. Be careful not to warp lid in burning process.
 
For those who skipped the meat of this novel, do yourself a favor. Do a search for "Thirdeye Hoe Scoop". Aids in cleanup
 
Looks good pman. If you put
around the photo links they will show up in the thread without having to click on them.
I suspect you'll change your mind once I get the gold paint on it, paint the top dome into a football helmet, put the number 10 front and back along with some Mizzou emblems. :p

Thanks for the compliment and tip but I imagine I just got lazy and forgot to click the insert image button.
 
I suspect you'll change your mind once I get the gold paint on it, paint the top dome into a football helmet, put the number 10 front and back along with some Mizzou emblems. :p

Thanks for the compliment and tip but I imagine I just got lazy and forgot to click the insert image button.

A Mutiger in Fayetteville? You are a brave soul. Why don't you paint the top to look like a basketball instead...er, nevermind :heh:
 
Shouldn't be a problem at all. I did the same and mine seals up SO well that it did a 24 hour burn at 225* and only about 8 lbs of charcoal were used..... I say Smoke Away!!!

Picked up this Drum off Craigs List $10.00 seem like a great buy. It had some oil for making hand lotion. The liner seems to just be paint to me i am guessing a good burn would do the trick to remove? I also panicked when I took the ring off and tried to put the lid back on the lid did not fit good at all....So i pulled the seal out of the lid and pushed it back on and BINGO it fit like a glove is this how they all do? Should I be worried ?
 
Here is my drum.

http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l480/pman777/IMG_1953.jpg

The thermometer on the left is the Walmart 12" thermometer. Walmart does not have it on their website. It is in several of the Walmarts in my Fayetteville, AR area. It sells for 4.99 and it's quite accurate. It was in the bbq grill accessories dept. The square looking framed part at the top of my thermometer is not a part of the thermomter. The part that looks like a square frame to the top of my thermometer is the outer brace for my ubolt system holding up my grate. The thermometer looks like this
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bayou-Classic-Stainless-Steel-Thermometer/11902779

only my thermometer doesn't have the red on the face. Check your local Walmart. I'm pretty sure it was only labeled Mainstays Thermometer. Mainstays is a Walmart brand name.

I'd definitely be interested in your feedback with larger plates. I'm going to wait until I get a change in the heat balance before I start drilling holes. I like to change only one variable at a time.
looks good p man, wifey found the wallyworld thermometer, gonna pick up nipple, cap and12" pizza pan tomorrow punch some holes in it and test it out sunday with some chickens and a couple fattys. now that i have the long thermo i feel alot more confident on my heat control. il post picks when i finish the heat shield and let u know the the sunday results
 
Messing around with my first build, I know its not going to be pretty. I have to fix the edge, messed it up when cutting the lip off..... Anyway.

So I decided to play with my new Propane Torch and melt away some of the black paint off this Old drum I took home from work. And underneath the paint read the following:


262495_2106166867474_1644621005_2106540_5027517_n.jpg



I had plans to paint it Cubs blue and throw some Cubs logo's on it, now I just feel like leaving it ugly if the "Hot Charcoal Only" survives the burn this weekend.

I cant say this for sure, but this drum may be from the 1940's. My company leases an Old Factory building on a military base, the building we are in used to manufacture Tanks and other War Machinery during WWII. Its been used for some other manufacturing since, but thought this was neat enough to share.
 
Messing around with my first build, I know its not going to be pretty. I have to fix the edge, messed it up when cutting the lip off..... Anyway.

So I decided to play with my new Propane Torch and melt away some of the black paint off this Old drum I took home from work. And underneath the paint read the following:


262495_2106166867474_1644621005_2106540_5027517_n.jpg



I had plans to paint it Cubs blue and throw some Cubs logo's on it, now I just feel like leaving it ugly if the "Hot Charcoal Only" survives the burn this weekend.

I cant say this for sure, but this drum may be from the 1940's. My company leases an Old Factory building on a military base, the building we are in used to manufacture Tanks and other War Machinery during WWII. Its been used for some other manufacturing since, but thought this was neat enough to share.
this is how i cut my lid,hammer and chisel then the angle grinder this way no sharp edges to worry about
 

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first post

this is my first post.. i have been reading through this monstrosity of a post now for the past week.. getting ready to start my build next week.. i have secured a unlied referbed open top barrel and am looking forward to some nice smokey meat.. On a side note.. i am new to smoking too.. but something i have wanted to get into..

few questions..

with regards to the intake vents... it seems the accepted practice here is the 3" holes with the pipe nipples.. 2 capped and 1 ball valve.. with that said.. is there a performance differnece between having the ball valve intake short and stubby right off the barrel vs having it elevated along the side of the barrel? or is it just a cosmetic / not bending over preference?

for the stack.. i was planning on utilizing the 2" bung hold in the lid and threading in a section of pipe and adding an adjustable damper to it.. is that enough of a vent.. i see some barrels have about 8 holes drilled in the top

besides cost.. is there any reason to use Black pipe nipples / caps vs copper?

with Seasoning... is it just spraying PAM on the inside and running it through a burn cycle?.. low and slow or hot?

and my last question.. (for now)... water tray.. i see some people use them.. some don't.. I know there are arguments for direct heat source vs indirect.. i am new to smoking.. is there a preference?

thanks for all your help.. i will post pictures when i start
 
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few questions..

with regards to the intake vents... it seems the accepted practice here is the 3" holes with the pipe nipples.. 2 capped and 1 ball valve..

I hope you meant 3/4" vents. Instead of having three separate vent openings a single 1.5" ball valve should also do the trick. The 1.5" ID vent gives you more intake volume, somewhere close to having four separate smaller vents. I think this approach gives you more latitude from a single vent.
 
I hope you meant 3/4" vents. Instead of having three separate vent openings a single 1.5" ball valve should also do the trick. The 1.5" ID vent gives you more intake volume, somewhere close to having four separate smaller vents. I think this approach gives you more latitude from a single vent.

yeah i did mean 3... 3/4" vents..

now with using the 1 larger vent.. does that have any impact on the fire since all the air is coming in from one side as apposed to spread out aroudn the bottom?
 
now with using the 1 larger vent.. does that have any impact on the fire since all the air is coming in from one side as apposed to spread out aroudn the bottom?
Absolutely no difference IMO.

Even with the smaller vents once the temperature settles you'll be controlling intake from one single valve only. I don't think it matters which direction the air is coming from, it'll find its way to the rightful coals.

But cost wise, the bigger ball valve and its fittings will be a lot more expensive so that's something to consider also. And also the bit to open up a hole that big.....but there are other ways to get around that.
 
this is my first post.. i have been reading through this monstrosity of a post now for the past week.. getting ready to start my build next week.. i have secured a unlied referbed open top barrel and am looking forward to some nice smokey meat.. On a side note.. i am new to smoking too.. but something i have wanted to get into..

few questions..


for the stack.. i was planning on utilizing the 2" bung hold in the lid and threading in a section of pipe and adding an adjustable damper to it.. is that enough of a vent.. i see some barrels have about 8 holes drilled in the top

I'm using a length of pipe screwed into the bung hole for the vent. do not put a damper on the exhaust, control the temperature with the intake valves. shutting off the intakes and leaving the exhaust open will still snuff out the coals.
 
I'm using a length of pipe screwed into the bung hole for the vent. do not put a damper on the exhaust, control the temperature with the intake valves. shutting off the intakes and leaving the exhaust open will still snuff out the coals.

what about the ability to close it when its not in use.. to keep water out?
 
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