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Unread 01-27-2014, 08:09 PM   #15
unixadm
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Join Date: 09-20-12
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I have experimented thanks to advice on this forum on my Lang 36 Patio. My best results thus far are running thin splits that I then cut in half with a Worx Jawsaw. I'm burning 7-8" small splits of white oak or cherry. I placed a small piece of expanded metal on the firebox grate (it covers the entire grate), then bent the back 1/3rd of the expanded metal upwards. I did this to prevent building the fire too close to the cooking chamber as recommended. I then put a shovel full of Royal Oak lump on the expanded metal on the very right side of the firebox and light it with a torch with the cooker wide open. After 5-10 minutes with the lump starting to get cherry red, I put a couple of splits on there. I then put another split or two in the firebox on the left side to preheat. At that point I close the main chamber door and leave it in the slightly open position, while leaving the firebox door partially open. Once the cooker starts drafting and approaches 225 degrees, I close the main chamber door and the firebox door. It will normally ramp up to around 250-275 degrees and I keep both dampers wide open, feeding splits to maintain the temperature desired.

I tried longer splits and the results were not as good. I get more even chamber temps, less smoke and a much cleaner fire. You don't need a huge fire to keep the patio models at temperature. You may tend the fire a bit more with smaller half splits, but I'll take that. It also allows me to rotate through different wood more quickly.
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UNiXADM
Yoder YS1500 Competition - Lang 36 Patio SS - WSM 18.5 - Stoker Wifi - Tappecue - Blackstone 36" Griddle
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