This the basket modification for the minion effect. Works good. I did not make 3 dividers like some people do.
I modified the upper cooking surface after cooking a few times. It was always in the way when cooking on the bottom grates. I cut 6" off.
I modified the ET counter weights. Doors weighed 27# they needed counter weights. The bend in the neck was to shorten the fold back position. They have a nice fluid movement. Not too heavy but wont come open going down the road. I found a very helpful calculation on the internet may have even been on the forum.
Modified hinges. First generation hinges real nice laser cut hinges looked great, but function was not what I wanted. The doors were not very fluid and smooth. I actually had to rebuild the doors completely. I had a piece of pipe left over. The 1st doors sprung about a .25" at the bottom and I got carried away with trying to pull them in and warped them pretty bad. So I started over and rebuilt the hinges at the same time. It was a time consuming loss, but turned out better in the end.
I also changed the handles at this time to. Laser cut pieces with a down turn to help with that hot wrist/edge of door potential problem. The handles are solid stock 1 1/4" aluminum drilled and tapped.
Finally Inlet Modification: After first two trial runs I did not like the temperature across the bottom grates. As you can see in the 1st picture I used a inverted inlet that pushed the heat upward, but the bottom of the pit remained cool. After visiting the bbq calculator I realized the inlet was not big enough for cooking chamber. So, I cut 2-2.5" hole below the other inlet and build a removable deflector plate and it worked like a charm. Even temp al the way across. I cooked 2 5# beef rib roast on the far end and 2 racks of baby back pork ribs closest to the fire box. I had a digital thermometer for both side same temp across pit.