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Unread 05-20-2013, 01:54 AM   #62
Marvin
Got Wood.
 
Join Date: 02-12-13
Location: Houston, TX.
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I'm not going to do one long post, going to break things into 2-3 smaller posts.

Mounting the PID in it's case.

Front plate off the case.



PID mounted in front plate.





Back plate off the case.



Used the dremel to cut a hole in the back plate for the thermocouple socket.



Run the wires through the back plate to wire up power to the PID and the wire for the SSR connection.



Ready to wire up the PID power, SSR connection and thermocouple socket.



Back plate mounted.



Wiring through the case.



PID, SSR and thermocouple socket wired.



Front and back shots of the completed PID case.





Male plug for the thermocouple so it can plug into the back of the PID case.




Plug mounted.



Mounted the plugs for the power to the PID and the SSR. Used heat shrink tubing to cover the individual pairs. The black heat shrink set (say that 3 times fast ) is power to the PID and the green heat shrink set is for the SSR connection.

I also used the soldering iron to engraved into each plug what it is as well ... one marked Power and one marked SSR.



This next part may seem a little tricky as most do not know the workings of a wall socket. You normally hook up the hot (positive) and neutral (negative) terminals from one breaker (and the ground wire as well) and both sockets are hot (functioning), you do not have to hook up both sockets (terminals/screws).

How power is fed from one socket to the other, is by a little bridge between the two sockets.



Closer view.



In terms of electrical wiring, if you want each socket on it's own breaker, you would cut the bridge between the two and wire each socket to a separate breaker.

What I have done is cut the bridge, now, one socket is for power to the PID and the other socket is for the the SSR connection.



Closer look with things plugged in.



Another look once the bridge is cut (sorry the pic is out of focus ).




More to come shortly.
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