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-   -   Ugly Drum Smoker (https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23436)

AJP 03-08-2011 11:48 AM

Was thinking of having a barrel powder coated, how do you think that would stand up?

smokeyw 03-08-2011 12:59 PM

If done right it will hold up better than any wet paint you could put on it. The key is in the metal prep prior to powder coating. I used to manage a fabrication shop and we had a powder coat line. It used a 6 stage prep. We had to pass at least a 200 hour salt spray test. We experimented some with the prep chemicals and got that over 500 hours.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AJP (Post 1571663)
Was thinking of having a barrel powder coated, how do you think that would stand up?


expatpig 03-08-2011 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by locodrvr (Post 1571659)
My first UDS. I completed this past weekend. Thanks to everyone who has posted on this forum, it helped me along tremendously. The only problem I have is my cooking distance. I can't get it much more than 20 inches from my fire. right now it's sitting at 18in. Any suggestions? help?

Don't worry about it just get cookin! 20", 18", 22" are just numbers, nothing is carved in stone.

locodrvr 03-08-2011 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by expatpig (Post 1571850)
Don't worry about it just get cookin! 20", 18", 22" are just numbers, nothing is carved in stone.

Thanks! I lowered my fire basket a bit so that should help. After I seasoned it I did Tri-Tip at 280 for an hour and it came out perfect med-rare. Just put some handles on it today and a fresh coat of red paint. Can't wait for the weekend to really break it in.

Dankster 03-08-2011 03:48 PM

I too, just finished my first UDS. Thanks to all the info in this thread, I had no problem building it, and this mofo HANDLES! Truly set it and forget it.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_J...E/s912/003.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_J...w/s912/007.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_J...w/s512/009.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_J...I/s912/013.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_J...2016.31.28.jpg

chobint 03-08-2011 09:55 PM

EDIT: HOLY SHEET... my ribs are at 139 after two hours, fire at 200-250. Crazy fast.

Just built my UDS this weekend. Why de fark did I wait this long to build one........................?

Anyway, I used the chisel method to remove the top, and the lid came off like butter. I couldn't believe how easy it was. As you can see I'm using a 22 weber lid. The lid makes a good seal despite the fact that it is slightly too small. I might bang out a weber lid once I get a second one.

Anyhoo.. I've got an untrimmed rack o spares on it for her maiden journey. I just dropped two brewskies like it was nothin, so I'm feelin great. I'll get some more pics up as the cook goes.

Also, I live in the ghetto, hence the chains.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...IMG_0020-1.jpg

otterpop 03-08-2011 10:59 PM

Love the chain to the parking bumper mod. Just needs a sticker that says
"Keep the Ghetto Ghetto"

inv3ctiv3 03-08-2011 11:37 PM

So I have searched for the chisel method and I can't find anything, any tips or tricks? I am assuming just use a 1" cold chisel and bang away at it? Here are mine if that helps:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5252/...b5af95eb_z.jpg

chobint 03-09-2011 01:49 AM

The chisel technique is most often used to cut out the flat metal inside of the top lip. From what I've seen, most recommend a large chisel (I used a mason's chisel). The process of cutting is fairly straight forward. You just whack the chisel into the top at an angle, and continue driving it at an angle as you push the chisel around the interior of the drum. If you use a sledge hammer and a proper chisel, the job should take no more than 15 minutes even for your first try. I let my mom give it a try b/c she wanted to. Altho she was much slower due to sheer power output, she probably did 25% to my 75% of the cutting. Not bad for an old lady. Anyway, the point of the anecdote is to emphasize how easy it is to cut the inside out with a chisel.

inv3ctiv3 03-09-2011 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chobint (Post 1572521)
The chisel technique is most often used to cut out the flat metal inside of the top lip. From what I've seen, most recommend a large chisel (I used a mason's chisel). The process of cutting is fairly straight forward. You just whack the chisel into the top at an angle, and continue driving it at an angle as you push the chisel around the interior of the drum. If you use a sledge hammer and a proper chisel, the job should take no more than 15 minutes even for your first try. I let my mom give it a try b/c she wanted to. Altho she was much slower due to sheer power output, she probably did 25% to my 75% of the cutting. Not bad for an old lady. Anyway, the point of the anecdote is to emphasize how easy it is to cut the inside out with a chisel.

Ok I'll have to look at the top of my drums again but it actually cuts through the metal correct? I'll have to go try and find a good chisel to get and you used a sledge?

chobint 03-09-2011 05:29 PM

My chisel was not very sharp at all. In fact it was quite dull. Yes the chisel will cut thru the metal. A sledge is not required but highly recommended. If you are going to buy a new chisel anyway, I'd recommend one of the large mason's style ones with the hand guard built into the handle. It's only like a few bucks more than the base models.

inv3ctiv3 03-09-2011 05:39 PM

And is there a reason no one uses the WSM style basket? I mean it seems easy enough to make legs onto a grate to get it off the bottom of the drum then just use the WSM charcoal "basket" I've been looking at expanded steel and it can be expensive plus I don't have a welder.

1FUNVET 03-09-2011 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by inv3ctiv3 (Post 1573227)
And is there a reason no one uses the WSM style basket? I mean it seems easy enough to make legs onto a grate to get it off the bottom of the drum then just use the WSM charcoal "basket" I've been looking at expanded steel and it can be expensive plus I don't have a welder.

You can use wire to hold basket together w/o any welding. Check local welding and fabrication shops for scrap pieces.

chobint 03-09-2011 06:13 PM

So I did finally cook my ribs but it took a while. My drums was struggling to keep up in the rain with a single 3/4 ball valve wide open. When it was still dry and about 45 outside, the drum was cruising at 225-250 with the valve wide open. Once it started raining it got down as low as 150. That's when I pulled the meat. Both temps seem a bit low to me. I expected the temps to run at 300+ with the valve wide open and no rain. Am I missing something? Does this seem normal to you guys?

I will get more air inlets soon. I'm just waiting till the store has enough matching parts in stock.


Here's the ribs at 155 degrees, before I threw them in the oven for a quick finish.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...t/IMG_0026.jpg
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...t=IMG_0026.jpg

righteousdog 03-10-2011 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by inv3ctiv3 (Post 1573227)
And is there a reason no one uses the WSM style basket?

can't say no one uses a WSM style ring. i use these on my twins fab'd from 16g drum. carbide tip hole saw, drill press, and patience. works like a champ.

original 16" ash pan

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2794175_n.jpg

improved 20" ash pan = mo betta

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._5926394_n.jpg


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