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SmokeInDaEye
11-02-2008, 12:08 AM
I was planning on doing some mods on my little trailer this winter like maybe some outdoor speakers, some spotlights and, most importantly, fireproofing my back cooking area (the drop down door). Anyone have any thoughts on a fire resistent covering or coating?

BBQchef33
11-02-2008, 01:19 AM
Fireproof? U plan on cooking on the ramp? or just looking to generally protect it?

Ace hardware has a garage floor epoxy paint that runs about 40$ a gallon. . I add a bag of paint sand to the gallon and roller it on. It gives a good non skid coating and protects its. Not quite fireproff though, nut hard enuf to protect in from dropped embers and such. One gallon covers my ramp several times thru the season. probably 6-8 coats.

pigmaker23
11-02-2008, 06:01 AM
install some aluminum diamond plate on the ramp deck, get a hold of the Giggler, i'm sure he can hook you up with some

Smokin' Gnome BBQ
11-02-2008, 07:56 AM
Rhino Linings is non-slip and is self extingushing (no-flame being applied it goes out) one coat sould last a life time.

SmokeInDaEye
11-02-2008, 09:26 AM
Fireproof? U plan on cooking on the ramp? or just looking to generally protect it?

Ace hardware has a garage floor epoxy paint that runs about 40$ a gallon. . I add a bag of paint sand to the gallon and roller it on. It gives a good non skid coating and protects its. Not quite fireproff though, nut hard enuf to protect in from dropped embers and such. One gallon covers my ramp several times thru the season. probably 6-8 coats.

Yeah, I cook on the back. Also need to repaint the inside so the epoxy paint would probably work for that. Now Just need to figure out the lights and speakers!

SmokeInDaEye
11-02-2008, 09:32 AM
Rhino Linings is non-slip and is self extingushing (no-flame being applied it goes out) one coat sould last a life time.

That stuff is awesome! Any idea roughly how much it costs to get a small trailer sprayed? I may have them do my hands too!:biggrin:

BBQchef33
11-02-2008, 10:15 AM
I got a price of $550 to do my ramp with armorthane(just like rhino lining). it a little larger than yours. IMO, $$ was kind of steep for our applicaitons.

you can get herculiner DIY liners from JC Whitney. its 100$ a gallon and you could get one application out of it. Its used on the floor of jeep wranglers, not as tough as rhino. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10614/s-10101/p-100000283140/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000283140/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000283140

steer clear of the diamond plate.

Looks good, but when it gets wet, greasy, or worse, both, you have a real problem.

the rest of us will most likely just watch and laugh(aftrer we made sure you didnt get hurt).


All i all, i liked the epoxy paint becase i can recoat when it gets too nasty. it scrubs well, but eventually the grease stains dont come out. It usually gets a new coat in the beginning and then halfway thru the season depending on how much crap sledneck spills on it.

G$
11-02-2008, 10:44 AM
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by BBQchef33 http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?p=771953#post771953)
nut hard enuf to protect in from dropped embers and such.

some jokes write themselves.

Seriously though, this place makes both flame resistant and retardant coatings, although I have no experience.
http://www.flamecontrol.com/woods_n.html

I do wonder how long they may smell after application. Make sure you have time to air them out.

Quote:

http://www.flamecontrol.com/images/S_WOOD.jpgWood
Flame Control makes several different types of coatings for wood.
We make Flame Retardant and Fire Retardant Varnishes and Clear Coatings for wood so that the surfaces are protected against burning while maintaining the look of the wood. These come in systems that give both Class A and Class B Fire Ratings and can be used on walls, ceilings, trim work and floors. Previously uncoated porous wood should be sealed with Flame Control #6 or #66 Wood Sealer prior to varnishing.

Click here to see our line of Flame Control Varnishes and Clear Coats (http://www.flamecontrol.com/d_varishes_n.html)
We make Flame Retardant and Fire Retardant Paints that can be used on interior wood and exterior surfaces that have minor exposure to extreme weathering. Finishes include Flat, Low-Gloss, Semi-Gloss and High-Gloss. Previously uncoated surfaces should be primed with Flame Control 3001 or 3003 primer prior to painting.

Click here to see our line of Flame Control Paints (http://www.flamecontrol.com/d_paints_n.html)
There are times that wood surfaces may be in close proximity to heat generating equipment like wood stoves. In those cases you might need one of our special High
Performance Industrial Heat Resistant Coatings to protect the wood from damage and withstand the elevated surface temperature.

__________________
G$

NB Bandera
NB Horizontal (Silver Smoker?)
Medium Spicewine

Bbq Bubba
11-02-2008, 10:56 AM
Clint, you just using the WSM's on the rear deck?

How about just laying down a welding blanket?

I can see that Rhino lining getting just as slick with water or grease on it.

CivilWarBBQ
11-02-2008, 12:57 PM
One piece of advice on putting stuff on your ramp door: be wary of the additional weight.

The previous owner of our trailer applied heavy linoleum tile on the door. It is slick when wet, but also added a good hundred pounds to the door weight, enough to overpower the lift assist springs and make putting the door up a real chore for two men and a physical challenge for one. Scraping and chiseling the stuff off is a royal pain, one of my off season jobs this winter. :(

SmokeInDaEye
11-02-2008, 02:45 PM
Clint, you just using the WSM's on the rear deck?

How about just laying down a welding blanket?

I can see that Rhino lining getting just as slick with water or grease on it.

Yeah, just the WSMs. I was using a fireproof pad but also need to recoat the entire thing anyway since it just had a light coat of paint when I bought it earlier this year. I've got about 8 months to let it air out so should be fine.

Smokin' Gnome BBQ
11-02-2008, 05:01 PM
I got a price of $550 to do my ramp with armorthane(just like rhino lining). it a little larger than yours. IMO, $$ was kind of steep for our applicaitons.

you can get herculiner DIY liners from JC Whitney. its 100$ a gallon and you could get one application out of it. Its used on the floor of jeep wranglers, not as tough as rhino. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10614/s-10101/p-100000283140/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000283140/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000283140

steer clear of the diamond plate.

Looks good, but when it gets wet, greasy, or worse, both, you have a real problem.

the rest of us will most likely just watch and laugh(aftrer we made sure you didnt get hurt).


All i all, i liked the epoxy paint becase i can recoat when it gets too nasty. it scrubs well, but eventually the grease stains dont come out. It usually gets a new coat in the beginning and then halfway thru the season depending on how much crap sledneck spills on it.

armorthane is not like Rhino just another knock off, for the size area you are looking at having done it is more like $250.00 ot $300.00, unless they are tring to rip you off...

Rookie'48
11-02-2008, 06:41 PM
I have seen some one use the roll-on bed liner stuff (Hurculiner?) shot through a sand blast nozzle. Clean up is a beotch but its cheaper than the Rino or BullHide places.

Sledneck
11-02-2008, 09:03 PM
. It usually gets a new coat in the beginning and then halfway thru the season depending on how much crap sledneck spills on it.Who me?:wink::redface::redface::redface:

Jacked UP BBQ
11-03-2008, 08:45 AM
Sounds like worthless extra work, I say just put the smokers on the ground.

BBQchef33
11-03-2008, 09:25 AM
armorthane is not like Rhino just another knock off, for the size area you are looking at having done it is more like $250.00 ot $300.00, unless they are tring to rip you off...


Thats entirley possible. Price seemed steep to me to do approx 8x8..He did warn me anout the weight, which I forgot to mention. Another reason I stuck with paint.

Sounds like worthless extra work, I say just put the smokers on the ground.


doesnt matter, still needs to be protected and made anti skid.



I saw something online recently. It was anti skid stuff that came in 3'x50' foot rolls. Its stuff they use as a runner on staircases. That may be an option, but I still like the sand paint option. Quick/easy.

Jacked UP BBQ
11-03-2008, 09:29 AM
Anti skid I can see, very easy and cheap to do, but to make fire proof would be very expensive.

BBQchef33
11-03-2008, 09:36 AM
i kind of agree with him clint.

If you must cook on the ramp, the fireproof deck pads are probably the easiest. i would just screw them to the spots on the ramp after you paint it.

SmokeInDaEye
11-03-2008, 09:47 AM
i kind of agree with him clint.

If you must cook on the ramp, the fireproof deck pads are probably the easiest. i would just screw them to the spots on the ramp after you paint it.

That's true. I definitely need to coat it better, though. The wood is already taking a beating inside and on the ramp from wear and tear.

As for putting the WSMs on the ramp instead of the ground, I figure I have a 6x6 inch ramp taking up space in my site so why not level it off and use it? Plus they can be a bit unstable in muddy conditions. Just ask my neighbor from Sayville!:biggrin: Plus I can keep an eye on them without getting out of bed.

BBQchef33
11-03-2008, 09:55 AM
AND if it starts to rain, you cant close the trailer door to stay dry or protect your stuff. When i got my triailer, i intended on cooking on the ramp. Thats lasted one cook. When i couldnt close the rear door and the inside got soaked i realized, bad idea.

If your doing that, u need to coat the floor too, or get those vinyl slat curtains to keep the weather out at contests. Again, for the floor, I would go with paint. I put a tile commercial vinyl floor down and it added 360lbs to the trailer weight.

The Giggler
11-03-2008, 10:57 AM
We did the non-skid paint thing on the entire trailer floor. Quick work, that seemed to work well, and held up. Looks like an occassional recoat will keep the wood protected and maintain the non skid.

It was a two part system, paint and aggregate (sand?). Mix the two components, and go to town. Simple, and cheap.

BBQchef33
11-03-2008, 11:21 AM
only problem i see with doing the ENTIRE trailer floor non skid is cleanup. The corseness of my ramp beats the hell out of a mop so I have to use a brush and then hose it off. If the floor interior is non skid, i would think it would be a bitch to mop. I have a rubber mat used in commercial kitchens. They are 20 bucks for a 4x4 piece in home depot with interlocking sides.

keep in mind, my trailer is a prepstation also, not just storage. So it needs to be mopped out. I'm not sure if S.I.D.E is prepping in his or its just storage.

ique
11-03-2008, 11:26 AM
AND if it starts to rain, you cant close the trailer door to stay dry or protect your stuff.

A curtain can help with that like what Randy has on his trailer

http://www.ulceracresbbq.com/bbqtrailer/images/IMG_0114_1.jpg

SmokeInDaEye
11-03-2008, 11:34 AM
only problem i see with doing the ENTIRE trailer floor non skid is cleanup. The corseness of my ramp beats the hell out of a mop so I have to use a brush and then hose it off. If the floor interior is non skid, i would think it would be a bitch to mop. I have a rubber mat used in commercial kitchens. They are 20 bucks for a 4x4 piece in home depot with interlocking sides.

keep in mind, my trailer is a prepstation also, not just storage. So it needs to be mopped out. I'm not sure if S.I.D.E is prepping in his or its just storage.

Yeah, mine is only 5x9.5, used for transport and for sleeping once unloaded. I have a vinyl curtain for the back that I put up at night. The inside needs something durable on the floor since it takes a beating moving stuff in and out. I already have a couple gashes in the floor.

BBQchef33
11-03-2008, 11:52 AM
a few options for the interior floor.

vinyl tile. Good because if u gash one, you can replace one. if you go with linoleum type large sheets, if you cut it, your screwed.

Commercial grade vinyl. Real durable (but heavy. 60lbs per box, you will need 2.5 boxes i think.), if your not near your limit, consider it. Thats whats in my trailer and it takes a serious beating. available at home depot or Long Island paneling.

Epoxy paint. Durable but $$$ and it will still gash if you abuse it, but wood can be filled. :) Not as durable as the commercial vinyl.

SmokeInDaEye
06-25-2009, 02:26 PM
Finally getting around to recoating this weekend. Went with some Valsar deck paint with grit as per someone's suggestion. There's one spot of wood along the seam that has kid of softened up from getting wet. Should I put some wood filler or something in there before painting to firm it up?

moocow
06-25-2009, 03:09 PM
I used the porch and floor paint at home depot.(oil polyurethane not latex) I added the grit for the ramp. I have only done one comp since it was done, but I am happy with it. Not slick at all. $22 a gallon. Sounds like screwing down the mat would be the best Idea. I also used the floor paint on the walls. cleans up easy.

KC_Bobby
06-25-2009, 04:29 PM
I like the porch and floor paint too (oil based) for the floor too. I didn't use sand on the floor and it can be slippery - thankfully we have mats covering the walkway. I still have my ramp to paint - that will need sand otherwise we'll be feeling like Fred Flintstone pushing the cookers up.

Smoke'n Ice
06-26-2009, 03:53 PM
One piece of advice on putting stuff on your ramp door: be wary of the additional weight.

The previous owner of our trailer applied heavy linoleum tile on the door. It is slick when wet, but also added a good hundred pounds to the door weight, enough to overpower the lift assist springs and make putting the door up a real chore for two men and a physical challenge for one. Scraping and chiseling the stuff off is a royal pain, one of my off season jobs this winter. :(

Use a pressure washer, it makes the job easier

As for the WSM's, get the hot water heater pans at Home Depot or Lowes and place them under the WSM. Catches grease, coals, embers, etc. can be emptied, washed, etc.

Mack

watg?
06-26-2009, 04:40 PM
Who me?:wink::redface::redface::redface:


I thought he only dropped chicken in the dirt!:twisted:

SmokeInDaEye
06-26-2009, 05:26 PM
As for the WSM's, get the hot water heater pans at Home Depot or Lowes and place them under the WSM. Catches grease, coals, embers, etc. can be emptied, washed, etc.

Mack

Great idea!

Rookie'48
06-27-2009, 12:09 AM
As for the WSM's, get the hot water heater pans at Home Depot or Lowes and place them under the WSM.

Great idea!

I am so going to steal this idea :biggrin:.

PatioDaddio
06-27-2009, 12:24 AM
How about aluminum water heater pans (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=35163-138-34078&lpage=none)? They're cheap, light and imminently portable. Oh, and you can use them at home, too.

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/038753/038753340838md.jpg

Just an idea,
John