If a Redneck wanted to build a UDS

[Norcoredneck]

Ok here is how he would do it. Not that this is the right way or the only way but how I would do it. Will add steps as I complete them.

Divide drum into 3 sections

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3029.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3030.jpg

Layout grill holes.
I chose 1 3/4"" and 8" from top. You should assess the drum you are using.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3031.jpg

Layout Intake holes.
I chose 2" from bottom.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3032.jpg

Layout Gauge hole.
I chose 9" (1" below lower rack)

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3042.jpg

Centerpunch marks.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3034.jpg

Drill pilot holes.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3035.jpg



http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3036.jpg

Drill holes for Intake nipples
I use 1" which lets you thread 3/4" nipple (clean round hole)

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3039.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3040.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3041-1.jpg

Drill out holes for Grate supports
I am going to use 1/4" bolts. I use Unibit to get clean holes in thin metal.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3037.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3038.jpg

Open up hole for gauge.
I use 3/4" hole which is a tight fit for a 1/2" pipe thread.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3043.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3044.jpg

Thread in 3/4" close nipples
I use cap to protect threads and screw in as far as possible.
This link will show alternative to welding nipples.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showpost.php?p=656872&postcount=40

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3047.jpg

Weld in Nipples

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3049.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3048.jpg

Install 3/4" ball valve.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3050.jpg

[trp1fox]

Thank you!

[Bbq Bubba]

Your the only redneck i know with a welder. :twisted:

Are you sure that holesaw isin't 1"?

[Bbq Bubba]

This might as well be made into a sticky right now.

[NotleyQue]

Norco gave me these exact same plans. Cheep and easy, and the UDS holds temps all night long.


This is (IMO) the best method to build one of these amazing smokers.

[Norcoredneck]

Are you sure that holesaw isin't 1"?
Details details. Actualy 25mm. 1". Nice catch Bubba. Didn't know you knew how to make one. :mrgreen: Correction made. Thanks.

[swamprb]

Damn! I might as well go cut the toilet seat in half now!

[417bullelk]

I'm with Bubba.....please sticky this one ASAP. This is how I plan to build mine.

THANKS Norcoredneck!! Great job. I like the notes written on the barrel. You made it redneck proof!

[Norcoredneck]

[quote=Bbq Bubba;656088]Your the only redneck i know with a welder. :twisted:
quote]
I don't have A welder. You should know me by now, I have 5 :biggrin:

[big brother smoke]

Farking brilliant! Hey Pat, I am still up, can U believe it? :tongue:

[michiana mark]

Farking brilliant! Hey Pat, I am still up, can U believe it? :tongue:

Ya me too, course I just got home from work.

[Barbarian]

Very good tutorial.
Just curious, would you do the burnout before drilling the holes?

[Barbarian]

Oooops, just wondering also why three sections not four?
I thought it might be tougher for a redneck to do that cipherin'. I think Jethro would have gone with four sections. lol

[Hook_Line_and_Sinker]

I great looking build pictorial !

based on the genially accepted basic design !

Awesome work Pat!

[CaptGrumpy]

Oooops, just wondering also why three sections not four?
I thought it might be tougher for a redneck to do that cipherin'. I think Jethro would have gone with four sections. lol

Four section would require absolute precision to prevent rocking.
Three points will always stay stable and not rock, even if off a titch bit!

[Norcoredneck]

Four section would require absolute precision to prevent rocking.
Three points will always stay stable and not rock, even if off a titch bit!

Bingo! plus grates arn't perfectly true and don't stay that way.

[N8man]

Fantastic, FoolProof Tutorial, Norco. Great Job!!!

[Single Fin Smoker]

Um....your still buildin me one. My level of domestication prevents me from paying any attention to your instructions.
I'd rather pay you........to build the farker for me.
Please return your phone calls..

[Norcoredneck]

Um....your still buildin me one. My level of domestication prevents me from paying any attention to your instructions.
I'd rather pay you........to build the farker for me.
Please return your phone calls..
calls?

[Single Fin Smoker]

Left you a voice mail today.
Figured you were busy with the daughter at the end of the school year.

We need to talk seriously.

[OSD]

Fantastic, FoolProof Tutorial, Norco. Great Job!!!

Excellent work!!

[chinesebob]

Norco you are a genius. What kind of a welder did you use for your holes - and how did you get it so clean....

[bowhnter]

Great Tutorial!

[Smokin Gator]

Super job on the tutorial. That will be super helpful for anyone who hasn't built one.

[Norcoredneck]

Norco you are a genius. What kind of a welder did you use for your holes - and how did you get it so clean....

I am using My Hobart Handler 140. Mig welding with gas. Not as great as it may look. Not terrible either, gonna keep my day job. Practice! You still have the Harbor freight welder? It has only High low correct? See more expensive welders have multiple settings. Mine has position click but would prefer reostat for more infinate control like Miller or Linclon. High/Low could be partially why you have burn through.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200306073_200306073

[ComputerMike]

Bookmarked. Printed.

Can we can a sticky, brother?

Can I get an Amen?

(Nice work)

[ComputerMike]

If the nipples thread in clean do you need to weld them?

[Bbq Bubba]

If the nipples thread in clean do you need to weld them?

I don't....

[wlh3]

If the nipples thread in clean do you need to weld them?

I don't use nipples at all. Just flexable magnets. Nothing to stubb my toes on:lol:

[Garth57]

Norco,

I am planning on picking up a 30 gallon drum today in Riverside. Want me to pick one up for you? I want to build a smaller, one as well as a 55. I am willing to let you help me put them together in your backyard! :cool:

[ThChrMn]

I should have my drum next week and will follow these exact steps!

Thanks much.

[smokinvic]

Hey Norco, do you think the nipples can be brazed on with some silver solder sticks as opposed to welding on? Just wondering.....

[Single Fin Smoker]

Vic.....from what I know of our Norco, he likes his nipples to be welded.

[smokinvic]

Vic.....from what I know of our Norco, he likes his nipples to be welded.

I think you may Norco TOO WELL!!!! LMAO

[HB-BBQ]

Awesome tutorial, you know that drum sure looks familiar :mrgreen:

[txschutte]

Funny, that's exactly how Wyatt did his!! Are you trying to capitalize on his plans??:rolleyes::shock::biggrin:

[Norcoredneck]

If the nipples thread in clean do you need to weld them?

Hey Norco, do you think the nipples can be brazed on with some silver solder sticks as opposed to welding on? Just wondering.....
They thread in nicely. I weld them because some day the cap will seize due to heating, cooling and general rust and unscrew nipple. I am going to post other options in a link from thread. Swamp , Bub, WHO are contributing to info. I want to make a clean flowing tutorial on basic build with links to alternative methods.

Actually a spot weld or a simple braise is all that is needed. It is not to seal, just keep from backing out. I weld because I can. Matter of a fact i owe a lot of Brethren for their votes that won me a Miller welder.


Got to cook for girl scouts plus work so may not add much this weekend. Oh wait MIL in the house, I can snooze at work. :twisted:

[Norcoredneck]

Funny, that's exactly how Wyatt did his!! Are you trying to capitalize on his plans??:rolleyes::shock::biggrin:
Great minds think alike. :cool:

[Rub-A-Dub]

Great job Norco. Got 2 more barrels waiting for grates.

[Norcoredneck]

You can thread nipples in and use conduit nuts to lock them in.
Nuts come in bag from Home Depot/Lowes, ect. Found in electrical section.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3051.jpg

Tighten like this (Primitive Pete mod.)
You are just locking them in not pounding home.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3052.jpg

Or you can use Plugs. (Thanks Swampb.)
Plugs are drilled and screws and double nuted for easy removal.
Also in electrical isle at Home Depot/Lowes.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/100_2254.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/100_1642.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/100_2109.jpg.

[N8man]

Keep on posting Norco, and learn us something!!!:-D
I like seeing the Alternative Drum Methodology.
Gives the Welding Challenged amongst us a Glimmer of Hope for Smoking Success.
Again, Outstanding!!!

[SmokinCoyote]

Keep on posting Norco, and learn us something!!!:-D
Again, Outstanding!!!

I agree. I have read so much on these things that I couldn't make my mind up on what I wanted to do. I like this as it is plain and simple and proven to work.

Thanks Norco

[Norcoredneck]

Cant get to edit old post.

Divide drum into 3 sections

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3029.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3030.jpg

Layout grill holes.
I chose 1 3/4"" and 8" from top. You should assess the drum you are using.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3031.jpg

Layout Intake holes.
I chose 2" from bottom.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3032.jpg

Layout Gauge hole.
I chose 9" (1" below lower rack)

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3042.jpg

Centerpunch marks.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3034.jpg

Drill pilot holes.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3035.jpg



http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3036.jpg

Drill holes for Intake nipples
I use 1" which lets you thread 3/4" nipple (clean round hole)

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3039.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3040.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3041-1.jpg

Drill out holes for Grate supports
I am going to use 1/4" bolts. I use Unibit to get clean holes in thin metal.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3037.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3038.jpg

Open up hole for gauge.
I use 3/4" hole which is a tight fit for a 1/2" pipe thread.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3043.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3044.jpg

Thread in 3/4" close nipples
I use cap to protect threads and screw in as far as possible.
This link will show alternative to welding nipples.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...2&postcount=40 (http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showpost.php?p=656872&postcount=40)

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3047.jpg

Weld in Nipples

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3049.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3048.jpg

Install 3/4" ball valve.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3050.jpg
__________________
Install grate supports.
I use this set up. I go hex head in. It seems to keep grate from slipping off when setting in. Also nice when you spin grate.
I use 1 3/4" for top and 2" for bottom.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3065.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3064.jpg

Install gauge.
Again use conduit nut that comes with gauge to lock in.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3066.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3067.jpg

[chinesebob]

You can thread nipples in and use conduit nuts to lock them in.
Nuts come in bag from Home Depot/Lowes, ect. Found in electrical section.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3051.jpg


Or you can use Plugs. (Thanks Swampb.)
Plugs are drilled and screws and double nuted for easy removal.
Also in electrical isle at Home Depot/Lowes.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/100_2254.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/100_1642.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/100_2109.jpg.

I was looking at the nuts earlier today at HD and they said steel. No mention of galvanized. Those still ok?

Plugs - how do you open them up if you need additional airflow?

[chinesebob]

I can hardly wait for the lid!

[Forney]

Thank you for the non-welding tips. I have a pacemaker and can't go near a welder. Thank you thank you!!

[Norcoredneck]

I was looking at the nuts earlier today at HD and they said steel. No mention of galvanized. Those still ok?

Plugs - how do you open them up if you need additional airflow?

OK been wanting to say something but bit my lip. Most hardware you get at a standard hardware store is Steel that is either Zinc plated or Cadium plated. This is those Bolts, nuts, washers, ect. in the bins, Eyebolts, brackets and what not. Things that are galvanized are usually thin cheap metal for outdor use. I was told by an old guy that they started galvanizing water pipe because it was poor quality iron and the galvanize coating sealed it and also provided a rust protectant. Zinc and Cad are also bad for you. I don't know if it gets hot enough to outgas or not. If I did not have access to the stainless I use I doubt that I would spend the probably 3X the amount of what I refer to as "'K" bolts (as in Kmart). To be safe I would hit with torch and wire brush. People might argue but that is my feeling on the matter. Those Conduit nuts are probably zinc plated. Most things with threads are Zinc not galvanized. Galvanizing is a coating that adds thickness and would plug or foul the threads. You will also find things like that that are made out of what I refer to as Pot metal. It is a really low grade aluminum alloy of sorts. It is light and looks like aluminum but it is not. Think the bottom of old Hot Wheels cars. That is pot metal. Cheap to use in manufacturing and does not rust.



Now on the Plugs. To increase temp you just pull a plug. The screw set up Swampb came up with just makes it easier. To lower you install a plug. From one plug to 2 is a large increase but in between can be obtained by choking exhaust. Maybe Swampb can chime in and give better details.

[Norcoredneck]

Cost example
Part Number: 3013T341 (http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=3013T341) $3.94 Each
Type
Eyebolts
Shoulder Type
Without Shoulder
Thread Type
Fully Threaded
Material Type
Steel
Finish
Zinc-Plated
Steel Type
Plain Steel
Thread Size
1/4"-20
Work Load Limit
500 lbs.
Dimension A
3/4"
Dimension B
1"
Part Number: 33045T71 (http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=33045T71) $8.91 Each
Type
Eyebolts
Shoulder Type
Without Shoulder
Thread Type
Fully Threaded
Material Type
Stainless Steel
Finish
Plain
Stainless Steel Type
304 Stainless Steel
Thread Size
1/4"-20
Work Load Limit
460 lbs.
Dimension A
3/4"
Dimension B
1"

[huxter]

Thanks for fantastic pics Norco ,I'm one of those primitives that needs to see it done ,no amount of reading will do it for me .I reckon UDS's will start taking over Australia !! Anyone ever done one in stainless steel , I know where i can lay my hands on a drum . Look pretty smart in stainless with a red weber lid !

[wlh3]

Here are some pics of the Kiss Drum. Flexable magnets, three bolt firebox wired together to a weber 22.5 fire grate. The inside of the drum with three bolt cooking grate. The two bolt handle and lid hanger.
Was going to use swamps intake air controls idea,then remembered N8mans use of the magnets on his intake pipes and tried them. So far no problems. They adjust very easy:icon_bigsmil

[Bbq Bubba]

Walker, how longs it take you to bend down and reach those magnets?? :twisted:

[wlh3]

Not long at all. Try this, go to your fridge peel off a magnet if there is

one, if not get one, bend over and stick it to fridge at the bottom pretty

quick and easy. Not like screwing caps on the end of nipples or fiddling

with valves. To adjust just partially cover hole with magnet. once you are

used to your drum, adjustments are few and far between. I am 6'4", have

a bad back and my barrel chest has rolled down hill:lol: I don't have a

problem doing it. Easy Peasy:icon_bigsmil

[jgh1204]

Flexible magnets? Genius!

[chinesebob]

http://www.magnet4less.com/index.php?cPath=4_17

Enough to cover a lot of holes.

[Norcoredneck]

Having trouble with progress. not fast enough! Post lock and can't edit to add steps. Sorry for repost.

Divide drum into 3 sections

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3029.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3030.jpg

Layout grill holes.
I chose 1 3/4"" and 8" from top. You should assess the drum you are using.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3031.jpg

Layout Intake holes.
I chose 2" from bottom.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3032.jpg

Layout Gauge hole.
I chose 9" (1" below lower rack)

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3042.jpg

Centerpunch marks.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3034.jpg

Drill pilot holes.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3035.jpg



http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3036.jpg

Drill holes for Intake nipples
I use 1" which lets you thread 3/4" nipple (clean round hole)

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3039.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3040.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3041-1.jpg

Drill out holes for Grate supports
I am going to use 1/4" bolts. I use Unibit to get clean holes in thin metal.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3037.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3038.jpg

Open up hole for gauge.
I use 3/4" hole which is a tight fit for a 1/2" pipe thread.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3043.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3044.jpg

Thread in 3/4" close nipples
I use cap to protect threads and screw in as far as possible.
This link will show alternative to welding nipples.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...2&postcount=40 (http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showpost.php?p=656872&postcount=40)

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3047.jpg

Weld in Nipples

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3049.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3048.jpg

Install 3/4" ball valve.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3050.jpg
__________________
Install grate supports.
I use this set up. I go hex head in. It seems to keep grate from slipping off when setting in. Also nice when you spin grate.
I use 1 3/4" for top and 2" for bottom.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3065.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3064.jpg

Install gauge.
Again use conduit nut that comes with gauge to lock in.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3066.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3067.jpg


Add Handles (optional)
I got these at Home Depot in the Hardware isle by garage door section. Little tip pre-bend ears with pliers past radius of drum so they will bend and hug drum when tightened.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3071.jpg

[Norcoredneck]

Here is what it is looking like. Mentally working on way to streach lip of Weber lid to fit drum. Also working fire basket/ash pan. Starting with charcoal grate from 18" weber. Measures 13.5" diam.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3072.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3073.jpg

[Hook_Line_and_Sinker]

No need to apologize , the repletion is quite good for many that are building a UDS for the first time - I remember reading the entire UDS thread over a dozen times before building mine

and those of us that have built a UDS always seem to enjoy seeing build pic's


hey on this pic - whats the measurement from the top of the drum and does it clear a flat lid?

might as well state both measurements for the cooking grates

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3064.jpg

[Norcoredneck]

No need to apologize , the repletion is quite good for many that are building a UDS for the first time - I remember reading the entire UDS thread over a dozen times before building mine

and those of us that have built a UDS always seem to enjoy seeing build pic's


hey on this pic - whats the measurement from the top of the drum and does it clear a flat lid?

might as well state both measurements for the cooking grates



Layout grill holes.
I chose 1 3/4"" and 8" from top. You should assess the drum you are using.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3031.jpg

Don't have a flat lid here.

[iwnly]

[quote=Norcoredneck;657689]OK been wanting to say something but bit my lip. Most hardware you get at a standard hardware store is Steel that is either Zink plated or Cadium plated. This is those Bolts, nuts, washers, ect. in the bins, Eyebolts, brackets and what not. Things that are galvanized are usually thin cheap metal for outdor use. I was told by an old guy that they started galvanizing water pipe because it was poor quality iron and the galvanize coating sealed it and also provided a rust protectant. Zinc and Cad are also bad for you. I don't know if it gets hot enough to outgas or not. If I did not have access to the stainless I use I doubt that I would spend the probably 3X the amount of what I refer to as "'K" bolts (as in Kmart). To be safe I would hit with torch and wire brush. People might argue but that is my feeling on the matter. Those Conduit nuts are probably zinc plated. Most things with threads are Zinc not galvanized. Galvanizing is a coating that adds thickness and would plug or foul the threads. You will also find things like that that are made out of what I refer to as Pot metal. It is a really low grade aluminum alloy of sorts. It is light and looks like aluminum but it is not. Think the bottom of old Hot Wheels cars. That is pot metal. Cheap to use in manufacturing and does not rust.

Pat
Thanks for taking the time and creating a very thorough and easy to follow UDS design.

I purchased all of my 1/4" bolts-washers-nuts from Lowes in Stainless Steel ( they are in the pull-out drawers in hardware section )

[iwnly]

OK been wanting to say something but bit my lip. Most hardware you get at a standard hardware store is Steel that is either Zink plated or Cadium plated. This is those Bolts, nuts, washers, ect. in the bins, Eyebolts, brackets and what not. Things that are galvanized are usually thin cheap metal for outdor use. I was told by an old guy that they started galvanizing water pipe because it was poor quality iron and the galvanize coating sealed it and also provided a rust protectant. Zinc and Cad are also bad for you. I don't know if it gets hot enough to outgas or not. If I did not have access to the stainless I use I doubt that I would spend the probably 3X the amount of what I refer to as "'K" bolts (as in Kmart). To be safe I would hit with torch and wire brush. People might argue but that is my feeling on the matter. Those Conduit nuts are probably zinc plated. Most things with threads are Zinc not galvanized. Galvanizing is a coating that adds thickness and would plug or foul the threads. You will also find things like that that are made out of what I refer to as Pot metal. It is a really low grade aluminum alloy of sorts. It is light and looks like aluminum but it is not. Think the bottom of old Hot Wheels cars. That is pot metal. Cheap to use in manufacturing and does not rust.



Now on the Plugs. To increase temp you just pull a plug. The screw set up Swampb came up with just makes it easier. To lower you install a plug. From one plug to 2 is a large increase but in between can be obtained by choking exhaust. Maybe Swampb can chime in and give better details.

Pat
Thanks for taking the time and creating a very thorough and easy to follow UDS design.

I purchased all of my 1/4" bolts-washers-nuts from Lowes in Stainless Steel ( they are in the pull-out drawers in hardware section )

[Hook_Line_and_Sinker]

Home Depot has their stainless in small bags with the words "stainless steel" printed on the bags - price is a bit cheaper than Lowes and more selection including washers, lock washers and many lengths of bolts

[cowgirl]

Great "how to" Pat.:cool:

[chinesebob]

I'll say this as I do not enjoy dumping my ash pan out - Shopvac. Works very well. I take the filter off, stick the hose in and fill it up. use the air compressor, blow out the motor afterwards and all done. No problem....

[Norcoredneck]

They use a shop vac also
http://lh3.google.com/_tEUr8QtpwDY/R2J7-Oh2--I/AAAAAAAAEEQ/4RXLtgV0u3k/s800/102.+Hinduism%3B+Naga+Babas+naked+ash+smeared+long +jata.jpg

[smokinvic]

Hey Pat. What is the ideal distance between the coal basket and the first grate? How much room do you want there. I am waiting on an 80 gal (or 85 gal, whatever) drum thatI want to make a UDS out of. I liked yours! Especially the art work on the outside! but i digress. What is that distance? And can you lower the first set of bolts to get more room between lid and cooking surfe, in the case that a dome lid is not available to use?

[Barbarian]

Norco, a good little tool you might want to add to your tutorial for the conduit nuts is a "shower valve socket wrench". The size for a 1" nipple is 1 9/32". They are much easier then the "primative Pete mod". If you use two, one on the inside and one on the outside you can tighten the nuts down great.

If you have to vent smoke out like I do in my little Q shack then a 2"od by 4" pipe nipple works good. I also used conduit nuts on the exhaust pipe, one inside and one outside nice and solid. The 2" pipe seems to be the correct amount of exhaust also. I use a 3" dryer vent and put a tin can inside the vent with hose clamps to make it stronger and stable so hopefully last longer from taking it on and off the exhaust. Also made a little handle because the ventpipe gets a bit hot, especially on my UDG.

[Bbq Bubba]

Nice set-up there bro!! :biggrin:

[chinesebob]

Norco - you have never seen me after any of my cooks..... Little ash never hurt anyone.

[Mattzilla]

Where do I pick up a temp gauge like that?

[Norcoredneck]

If you mean the one I installed it is from Spicewine Iron works. He is a Brethren Best bang for buck. Quality and can recalibrate. @$20.
http://www.spicewineironworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=swiw&Product_Code=thermometer&Category_Code=acc

[Mattzilla]

If you mean the one I installed it is from Spicewine Iron works. He is a Brethren Best bang for buck. Quality and can recalibrate. @$20.
http://www.spicewineironworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=swiw&Product_Code=thermometer&Category_Code=acc

Thanks.

[Countryhb]

I think all you UDS builders should pitch in and get Pat a present...

[Divemaster]

Norco, Great Thread!!!!! I esp. liked the extension on the valve!!!!

[HatchQ4U]

Norco, thanks for the great information. It has been said many times, but let me say it again. This is a great tutorial. Love the pics, love the wording on the drum, love the mods.

But seeing this will be my first UDS build, I still have a few questions, and yes, I'm sure they won't be the most brilliant of questions.

1st, Seeing I only have a flat lid, would you still recommend your height of the grill racks. I only plan on have 1 rack, (figure I can make more UDS'r, if I need more space) and not sure if I should raise or lower it from your 8" down.

Next dumb question. I notice in your pics of your air intakes, you only have one with the ball valve. Are the other 2 just capped. If so, what is the purpose of them, or have you just not taken pic's of the other intakes with the valve.

And last but not least. With the reading I have been able to get through, there is still the debate on what kind of bolt hardware to use. It wasn't clear in your pics. Are they just standard zinc, or stainless or something different.

Again, thanks for the great tutorial, it is just what the newbies need to get started. Nice and simple.

Looking forward to my first build.

[Norcoredneck]

1st, Seeing I only have a flat lid, would you still recommend your height of the grill racks. I only plan on have 1 rack, (figure I can make more UDS'r, if I need more space) and not sure if I should raise or lower it from your 8" down.

Most important measurment is to maintain minimum 24" from charcoal grate to grill. Keep in mind that I am not finished with my charcoal grate/basket yet.

Next dumb question. I notice in your pics of your air intakes, you only have one with the ball valve. Are the other 2 just capped. If so, what is the purpose of them, or have you just not taken pic's of the other intakes with the valve.

Idea here is if temp has not been reached with 2 caps on and valve full open then reconfigure to 1 cap off and valve closed and opened to get to temp, then 2 caps off (most likely never need 2 caps off). Reverse to lower temp.

And last but not least. With the reading I have been able to get through, there is still the debate on what kind of bolt hardware to use. It wasn't clear in your pics. Are they just standard zinc, or stainless or something different.

I use stainless because of availability to me. If i had to use zinc I would heat with torch and wire brush (avoiding fumes). Probably not necessary but good reason to use weedburner!:twisted:
.
Hope this helps.

[JamesTX]

Tighten like this (Primitive Pete mod.)
You are just locking them in not pounding home.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3052.jpg


.

This is the smallest drum smoker I've ever seen.

[chinesebob]

Ok guys, here's almost my last question. Does anyone have a clear picture of the "holed" approach on their standard lid? I'm shrinking the cost of the UDS class by the minute and this is one of the last things I need to look at.

[smokinvic]

Ok guys, here's almost my last question. Does anyone have a clear picture of the "holed" approach on their standard lid? I'm shrinking the cost of the UDS class by the minute and this is one of the last things I need to look at.

You mean this one?

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii300/victordiaz06/UDSLidHoleLayout.jpg

[N8man]

That sure looks familiar:-P

[HatchQ4U]

You mean this one?

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii300/victordiaz06/UDSLidHoleLayout.jpg
I thought UDS's where supposed to be simple?

[Norcoredneck]

I think N8man did his best to simplify it from the original.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/UDSLidHoleLayout.jpg
Life itself is complex.:biggrin:

[Barbarian]

ChineseBob, I think they are trying to say 8 holes out near the outside edge of the lid.

[N8man]

I think N8man did his best to simplify it from the original.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/UDSLidHoleLayout.jpg
Life itself is complex.:biggrin:
I was torn between the Alignments of either Pig or Ram to True Magnetic North. Which would best guide me in my Quest to the Mysterious Yin and Yang of the Sweet Blue?
I Feel The Love, by the way...:-P

[sampson]

N8man, I hope you feel the love from Utah baby, that template helped me so much!!! I went and had it blown up and then laminated and have now used it on four drums. Thanks again:mrgreen:

[N8man]

N8man, I hope you feel the love from Utah baby, that template helped me so much!!! I went and had it blown up and then laminated and have now used it on four drums. Thanks again:mrgreen:
Not Meaning to Hijack Norco's Thread but Thanks Bro. That's why I Shared it in the First Place, Brother Helping Brother in Our Search For The Sweet Blue Truth. The Unity of the Brethren Collective, One's Knowledge Shared Becomes One's Insight Gained.:wink:

[Norcoredneck]

Divide drum into 3 sections

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3029.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3030.jpg

Layout grill holes.
I chose 1 3/4"" and 8" from top. You should assess the drum you are using.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3031.jpg

Layout Intake holes.
I chose 2" from bottom.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3032.jpg

Layout Gauge hole.
I chose 9" (1" below lower rack)

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3042.jpg

Centerpunch marks.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3034.jpg

Drill pilot holes.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3035.jpg



http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3036.jpg

Drill holes for Intake nipples
I use 1" which lets you thread 3/4" nipple (clean round hole)

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3039.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3040.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3041-1.jpg

Drill out holes for Grate supports
I am going to use 1/4" bolts. I use Unibit to get clean holes in thin metal.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3037.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3038.jpg

Open up hole for gauge.
I use 3/4" hole which is a tight fit for a 1/2" pipe thread.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3043.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3044.jpg

Thread in 3/4" close nipples
I use cap to protect threads and screw in as far as possible.
This link will show alternative to welding nipples.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...2&postcount=40 (http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showpost.php?p=656872&postcount=40)

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3047.jpg

Weld in Nipples

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3049.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3048.jpg

Install 3/4" ball valve.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3050.jpg
__________________
Install grate supports.
I use this set up. I go hex head in. It seems to keep grate from slipping off when setting in. Also nice when you spin grate.
I use 1 3/4" for top and 2" for bottom.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3065.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3064.jpg

Install gauge.
Again use conduit nut that comes with gauge to lock in.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3066.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3067.jpg


Add Handles (optional)
I got these at Home Depot in the Hardware isle by garage door section. Little tip pre-bend ears with pliers past radius of drum so they will bend and hug drum when tightened.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3071.jpg

Making Charcoal basket
This is the toughest part. I start with a replacement charcoal grate from a 18.5" weber kettle. I purchased at Home Depot

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3089.jpg

This is a view of legs. I chose 1/2" bolts 3 1/2" long. I use 2 washers and 2 nuts to capture grate.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3095.jpg

I use a piece of 3/4 #9 expanded metal 8" wide X 44" long.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3090.jpg

I pre bend it.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3091.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3092.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3093.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3094.jpg

Attach it to weber grate. I welded but you can use wire and twist and bolt where overlaps.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3087.jpg

Here is it complete
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3085.jpg

Reworking Lid
The last part would be to drill 8ea. 1/2" holes equally spaced in flat lid. I am using Weber Kettle lids so I am providing pic. of first UDS I built. Some lids have a 2" threaded bung opening that people have threaded pipe intoto make a smoke stack. Here is a link to examples.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_1928.jpg

Now only thing missing is a couple of 22" Weber grills and you are ready to cook.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/4276d.jpg

[Brauma]

I'm giddy with anticipation. What's next? :mrgreen:

[JD McGee]

Is it done yet...is it done yet...is it done yet...??? :twisted: Good job Norco...:biggrin:

[Hook_Line_and_Sinker]

This pictorial tribute to the basic Ugly Drum Smoker construction, as executed by one of the Brethren master craftsmen is outstanding!

Armed with Norcoredneck's pictorial guide and and N8man's layout diagram. ANYONE wishing to build their first drum should have no problem achieving success

First time builders should heed the words - keep it simple

Consider that for a small investment in time and money, you will produce a fine smoker!

These literally can be built and used the same day.

[N8man]

Again, an Excellent Tutorial!!! Now, We need to see that Bad Boy Fired Up and Smoking, Please.:-D