View Full Version : Yet another Long Island BBQ Restaurant

10-30-2006, 12:55 PM
Scent of smoke, good ribs and affability

Newsday Staff Writer
October 27, 2006

1759 Bellmore Ave.
North Bellmore

CUISINE: Barbecue for the whole family

CHECK: Appetizers, $6.95 to $7.95; sandwiches, $8.95 to $9.95, entree platters, $12.95 to $55.95 (for 5); desserts, $1.95 to $3.95

HOURS: Dinner, Monday and Tuesday, 3 to 9 p.m., Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, noon to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday, noon to 10 p.m.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Rest room not accessible.

The scent of wood smoke wafts out the door of Laura's BBQ Roadhouse. It travels through the small parking lot in front and wends its way to the overflow lot across the street. A more concentrated version of the same fragrance permeates the interior of the restaurant, a rambling warren of rooms that, on weekends, draws a crowd dominated by families with children. Sometimes, the place gets boisterous, but, hey, this is barbecue - messy by nature, designed to be eaten with gusto in down-home surroundings.

Lori Mattingly, the affable manager, says she should not be mistaken for co-owner Laura Adams or Laura the bartender or Loretta the waitress. "It can get confusing around here," she says. Because the place is new, I found service could get addled but never was less than amiable.

From the short roster of mostly fried appetizers, the highlight was an item called "Texas toothpicks," crisp shards of deep-fried zucchini and onion. "Armadillo eggs" (Cheddar-stuffed battered jalapeņos) were rather humdrum, as were Buffalo wings. Still, pub grub wasn't what I'd come to Laura's for. I craved whatever was responsible for that alluring aroma.

On my first visit, our party of four ordered a platter called "the trough," a long, wood dish piled high with enough food to feed up to five, according to the menu. Included were St. Louis-style ribs and barbecued chicken plus a choice of two other meats, along with several sides and some corn bread. We left bearing doggie bags.

I was pleased with the moist, smoky barbecued chicken, its skin beautifully bronzed. Both pulled pork and sliced brisket were infused with an admirable woodsiness, but they were a trifle dry. A squirt of barbecue sauce helped. The next time, smoked sausage turned out to be a seductive revelation. Pulled chicken, never a personal favorite, also came off well - better, in fact, than the pulled pork.

But the forte of pitmaster-owner Lloyd Adams is ribs. We were told that the restaurant had run out of baby backs, which didn't matter; the St. Louis ribs were nothing short of transcendent - moist, smoky and crusted by their spice rub. The meat had that deep pink color known as a "ring of smoke," earned only by a long time spent in the barbecue pit. I wouldn't dream of putting sauce on such ribs.

Side dishes - cole slaw, creamy potato salad and baked beans - were fine, but corn on the cob was watery and flavorless. Cornbread, baked in small loaves, was rather sweet. I didn't think it wise to serve the bread on the same wood platter as the meat, since some loaves got wet with juices.

I sampled a chopped brisket sandwich, the meat much moister and more flavorful than the sliced brisket I'd had a couple of weeks earlier. A juicy burger was first-rate.

I'd come back for another. Until the restaurant comes up with more worthy conclusions than pecan and apple pies (both from an outside baker), I'd conclude a meal here by helping myself to an extra rib.

Maybe two. Or more.

If you like Laura's, you also might want to try:

Hog House Barbecue, 200 W. Jericho Tpke., Huntington, 631-271-4200

Smokin' Al's Famous BBQ Joint, 19 W. Main St., Bay Shore, 631-206-3000

Smokehouse Grill, 296 W. Main St., Sayville, 631-589-9600

Tennessee Jack's, 148 Carleton Ave., East Islip, 631-581-9657

Farmer Bar-Cutchogue Barbecue Co., 4805 Depot Lane, Cutchogue, 631-734-5410

And Willie doesn't even get a mention. Will, you need to hire a media whore.

10-31-2006, 07:01 AM
you looking for a job

10-31-2006, 09:18 PM
you looking for a job
I was kinda wondering that myself.

10-31-2006, 09:27 PM
you looking for a job

Always looking for multiple income streams.

11-01-2006, 01:19 AM
I shot a brief email to the reviewer suggesting that she check out Willie B's, but I think she was focusing on sit down joints, where Willie's is strictly take out.

Her loss.

It's not a far trip from Bayshore to Melville. Get me a pulled pork sandwich and a soda for the drive and I'll drop off some bbq from Willie B's at Newsdays offices.

I can't believe what a bbq whore I'm becoming.
I need a placard:

'Will deliver to reviewers for bbq'


11-01-2006, 01:09 PM
Likewise inspired by Motoeric, I too sent an email to Joan Reminick at Newsday.
It'll be interesting to see what develops.
Can't recall if she was in the loop on the article that led to the infamous quote about "The Dominoes of the New Millenium".

11-01-2006, 01:15 PM
And another Willie B's

http://p.vtourist.com/i/ta/tipActionUpperRightBK2.gifhttp://p.vtourist.com/i/ta/tipActionTileLeft.gifWille B's BBQ is the second...Tip Rating: http://p.vtourist.com/i/starOnOrng.gifhttp://p.vtourist.com/i/starOnOrng.gifhttp://p.vtourist.com/i/starOnOrng.gifhttp://p.vtourist.com/i/halfstar_orng.gifhttp://p.vtourist.com/i/StarOff.gif
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Wille B's BBQ is the second worthwhile BBQ place. Located near the river, with boat access, Willie B's has some of the cities, no, it has the city's best ribs! And the BBQ is awesome. The prices aren't bad either.

Ribs!!!!!! Leave a Comment (javascript:void(0);)
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Directions: Off River Road. Take US 42 to Wolf Pen Branch north, to River Road, it's on the right.

11-01-2006, 04:11 PM
This just in per Joan at Newsday,

"Thanks, Wes! I'll surely check it out."

Heads up Will!

11-01-2006, 04:26 PM
I received a nice, fairly long note from Ms. Reminick in reply to my email. Basically, she said that she was focusing on places that had table service and was definitely going to make it out to Willie's.

Seemed like a nice lady.


11-01-2006, 04:29 PM
Willie's has table service.

He served me a beer at the table out back last night!

11-01-2006, 04:32 PM
Likewise inspired by Motoeric, I too sent an email to Joan Reminick at Newsday.
It'll be interesting to see what develops.
Can't recall if she was in the loop on the article that led to the infamous quote about "The Dominoes of the New Millenium".

Yeah, she was in the loop. It was her article.

11-01-2006, 11:53 PM
Likewise inspired by Motoeric, I too sent an email to Joan Reminick at Newsday.
It'll be interesting to see what develops.
Can't recall if she was in the loop on the article that led to the infamous quote about "The Dominoes of the New Millenium".

i cancelled newsday about 2 weeks ago after reading it for a lifetime, it has really gone down hill the last few years