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YokeUp
05-26-2011, 03:01 PM
hey ya'll.... I took the leap and ordered our first competition trailer...it's a baby step up from the tents... 6x12 cargo trailer. We are having them finish the inside with insulation, lights and flooring. One thing I didn't add is the air conditioner, their only option was a $1100 roof unit. I have talked with people about adding a window unit for much less cost, but you have to cut a hole in one of the sides..I'm thinking the front in one of the V- panels.... Here's the question, have any of you done this and if so, can you share your wisdom with me?

thanks in advance.

BearCat
05-26-2011, 03:03 PM
Never done it, but dealing with AC units alot. remember not only the cutting but you may need a mounting bracket so that would work better on the front then hanging on the side while in route

Goddahavit
05-26-2011, 03:05 PM
i would make sure the top is reinforced for a roof ac and look for a used one, i have seen 13.5 units for around 300. it doesn't look hard to install them.

just a thought...

Carnivorous Endeavors BBQ
05-26-2011, 03:27 PM
Hey Jeff,

You got it bad don't you??? BBQ in the blood..ha ha Moving up out of the realm of us tent dwellers and getting all fancy with a trailer..ha ha

widespread
05-26-2011, 03:28 PM
I use a roll-around portable 8k BTU a/c in our 16' box trailer, works ok. All I had to do was cut a small hole in the floor for the exhaust hose.

BBQ Bandit
05-26-2011, 03:37 PM
You didn't mention if you have double barn doors or a tilt ramp ...

An alternate direction... have barn doors. Picked up a foam insulation board ... 2" x 4' x 8' and trimmed to fit (held in place by friction only).... just folding back the right door and secured in place. Using a portable shelf... secured a window a/c unit and cut out the opening... keeping the trailer intact.


http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff72/bbq-brethren/Troop%20cook%20%20-%20Fort%20Bragg/P1010011.jpg

Big Ugly's BBQ
05-26-2011, 03:43 PM
That there is an OUTSTANDING idea, Bandit. There will be time when the AC unit is not needed and that hole will become a problem.

YokeUp
05-26-2011, 03:45 PM
You didn't mention if you have double barn doors or a tilt ramp ...

An alternate direction... have barn doors. Picked up a foam insulation board ... 2" x 4' x 8' and trimmed to fit (held in place by friction only).... just folding back the right door and secured in place. Using a portable shelf... secured a window a/c unit and cut out the opening... keeping the trailer intact.


http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff72/bbq-brethren/Troop%20cook%20%20-%20Fort%20Bragg/P1010011.jpg
WOW, that's an amazing approach, thank you so much

gmholler
05-26-2011, 03:46 PM
Jeff-
Contact Barry Smith (he'll be in Baton Rouge this weekend, I'm not sure if he's coming to Natchitoches next weekend) - he sold us our trailer with the window A/C unit in the front. I don't recall right off-hand if he said they had to install that special or not. I couldn't live without the A/C!

Lynn H.

crd26a
05-26-2011, 03:53 PM
My recommendation would be to have an AC Mount & Power put into the trailer then buy and install the AC yourself. It "should" save you a couple of hundred bucks, but will be up and out of the way, be setup to handle the AC much better and won't be a rigged setup that something could go wrong on. You can shop online for the right AC unit for you, easy to find some links and various price ranges, but IMHO will serve you better in the long run.

Oh, and if you do go this route, take into account needed head clearance around it. Just FYI

Smoke'n Ice
05-26-2011, 04:13 PM
Go on craigs list and get a roof top unit and put it in yourself. It goes where the vent is. If the manufacturer offers it as an option, then the support is already there. Bought mine on craigs for $150 3 years ago and it still works great. Even put in the heat strip for thoes cold nights early in the year. Runs off a 20 amp service. You will need some putty to place under the roof flange and some help getting it up there. My son-in-law and I put mine on. Just put a piece of plywood on the roof to support my fat A$$ and it was a piece of cake.

I can assure you, it's not worth $1,100.00 that they want.

DCFIREMANN
05-26-2011, 05:01 PM
Look on Ebay. In the camper parts listing. The unit should not cost you more than 400.00. A roof mounted unit is the only way to go.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

The_Kapn
05-26-2011, 05:05 PM
I use a roll-around portable 8k BTU a/c in our 16' box trailer, works ok. All I had to do was cut a small hole in the floor for the exhaust hose.

I have never considered or thought of a portable unit.
Did some "shopping" and I am going to buy one for Sherman.
I am amazed at the way they have improved over the years.
Very cost effective.

That may solve the "I am not doing summer comps" problem I have faced.

Thanks for the idea.

TIM

RobKC
05-26-2011, 05:41 PM
If you go with the window unit in the barn door method, make sure the ac is tilted back just enough so the condensate will drain.

huminie
05-26-2011, 08:00 PM
Just be careful with the big rooftop units. The draw a lot of power and can be damaged if there is low voltage. A lot of them require 30amps to work reliably and you can burn them out if the voltage is poor.

This thread just reminded me that I have a window AC unit in my garage. It was used for one summer only...that summer was 1996. I wonder if that thing still works...

NRA4Life
05-26-2011, 08:09 PM
I use a roll-around portable 8k BTU a/c in our 16' box trailer, works ok. All I had to do was cut a small hole in the floor for the exhaust hose.

This is exactly what I did except mine is a 12K BTU that I picked up at Sam's club for under $300 last year. Works great.

thillin
05-27-2011, 10:58 PM
I picked up my rooftop RV unit off CL for about $250. As long as there are cross beams to support the weight, it is easy to install and wire to a breaker box. I removed the roof vent and mounted the unit in about 45 minutes.

Have them run the wires and put in the roof supports if needed, and you do the rest.

Q-Dat
05-27-2011, 11:14 PM
If you go with the window unit in the barn door method, make sure the ac is tilted back just enough so the condensate will drain.



Not too much tilt though. Some are designed to hold condensate. The water runs out into the condenser section and a ring on the condenser fan blade scoops the water and slings it onto the condenser coil to help cool it and lower the head pressure, thus making it more efficient. If there is no ring on the fan of the unit you end up with then drain away!

Rookie'48
05-27-2011, 11:26 PM
If you decide to mount this on the side of your trailer, please remember that the maximum width allowed on public roads or highways is 102" or 8.5 feet, excluding required safty equipment (mirrors, etc.). Also, you must be able to see around, over or under the unit to have an unobstructed view.Any wider than that can get you a very costly ticket.

Ford
05-28-2011, 07:16 AM
Delonghi 12000 btu works great. 95 f when started and
down to about 75 in 2 hrs. Other part of trailer was 102. Off overnite and 80 in trailer fown rob 72 in half hr. works great. 10 amp draw.

Ford
05-28-2011, 07:17 AM
Delonghi 12000 btu works great. 95 f when started and
down to about 75 in 2 hrs. Other part of trailer was 102. Off overnite and 80 in trailer fown rob 72 in half hr. works great. 10 amp draw.

NRA4Life
05-28-2011, 09:04 AM
Delonghi 12000 btu works great.

This is the one I use and it does work great.