UDS Construction Baby Steps !

BruceKWHP · 04-23-2010, 11:25 AM

Does driving 100 miles in an SUV still make it a "free" drum? I hosed it out, started a small brush fire in it (which removed lots of the exterior paint) then took my 90 degree air die grinder with a 3" brown ScotchBrite wheel to the outside to remove the remaining paint.

Then I drilled a 3/4" hole with a Unibit for the ball valve (I will be going up to a 1" hole for the 3/4" nipples, 2 for caps one for ball valve)

Now I need more parts! Handles, grate(s), water pan? wheels?

What are best dimensions for charcoal bin, I need to get some expanded steel to weld one up! Fabrication and BBQ, what a combo!

Thanks to Mike on Craigslist: my "free" drum, it had a very thin amber color plastic like thin film lining that burned out easily... the bottom 1/4 had peeled from the shampoo that had been in the drum, strong shampoo or thin liner??

Paint removed and ready for 3/4" nipple installations, temp guage and 3 grille mounting bolts

1FUNVET · 04-23-2010, 11:33 AM

My charcoal basket is 15"x15" square and 12" tall.
Have fun enjoying all the great food that will be coming off it when you are finished.

Typically · 04-23-2010, 11:53 AM

oOoOoOo shiny :D

Chavo27 · 04-23-2010, 11:59 AM

I didn't take mine down to bare metal last time, maybe that's why the paint didn't last too long. I just paint over the old rust lol

Captain Dave · 04-23-2010, 12:44 PM

My basket is 18" around x 8" on 3" stilts. One day I'll attach a shallow pan under the stilts to aid in ash removal.
You're doing a fine job so far. Looks real good!
By the way you'll need 1" holes for 3/4" pipe nipple.

HeSmellsLikeSmoke · 04-23-2010, 12:51 PM

If you don't have time to go through the UDS thread itself, it is well worth the time to look and learn from Norco's great post on a tried and true UDS design.

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...1&postcount=86

Chavo27 · 04-23-2010, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeSmellsLikeSmoke

If you don't have time to go through the UDS thread itself, it is well worth the time to look and learn from Norco's great post on a tried and true UDS design.

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...1&postcount=86

I don't know how I missed this

peppasawce · 04-23-2010, 02:03 PM

Another Drum is delivered...Thanks to the UDS Stork

jswordy · 04-23-2010, 02:16 PM

A 16" Weber bottom grate (Lowe's or HD) makes a good base for one. The pan is a $3 Wally World pizza pan, excellent for catching ashes. Spot welded it to the bolts.

You can get expanded steel at Lowe's, etc., but I got mine from a welding shop. He ran it through the roller. Made things easier. Baskets are 16" deep. I can fill them all the way up and smoke for 4 days! Half-fill is good for two 6 to 8-hour smokes or one longer one.

The bale from a 5-gallon bucket is the cats ass for a handle. Bend a small notch in the middle of it, and use a cheap fireplace poker hook (mine was $4) in the notch to to lift and lower the basket. Excellent control.

Happy building!

BruceKWHP · 04-23-2010, 03:44 PM

I read the Norco post after I posted the pics, I will be using the three bolt method for grill mounting, and drilling the ball valve hole to one inch for a nipple.... With the flat drum lid, how many racks at what height from the top? I was thinking one rack to start about 8" down from top edge, with a thermometer mounted 1" below it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeSmellsLikeSmoke

If you don't have time to go through the UDS thread itself, it is well worth the time to look and learn from Norco's great post on a tried and true UDS design.

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...1&postcount=86

McGurk · 04-23-2010, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruceKWHP

I read the Norco post after I posted the pics, I will be using the three bolt method for grill mounting, and drilling the ball valve hole to one inch for a nipple.... With the flat drum lid, how many racks at what height from the top? I was thinking one rack to start about 8" down from top edge, with a thermometer mounted 1" below it.

That sounds about right. The key thing to aim for is to have the bottom rack about 24" above the bottom of your fire basket (what the coals rest on, not the bottom of the drum). Any closer and you risk temps that are too high. I personally used the 4 bolt rack mount, for no reason other than I have the hardware to do so, and the chance of the rack ever tipping from lopsided meat placement is practically zero.

BruceKWHP · 04-24-2010, 01:04 AM

today I drilled out the 3/4" hole to 1 1/4" with a Unibit to take a 1" nipple, then screwed on a 1" Harbor Freight ball valve (free because they were not supposed to be on the shelf, but returned to the main warehouse, he did not want to "sell" it to me... so he just said "it's yours") I welded it up with the wire feed... not too bad a weld considering how rusty I am.

Do I put another 1" pipe on the opposite side and cap it for additional airflow on start up? I was going to cap two 3/4 nipples and use a 3/4 ball valve untill I spotted the 1" valve at Harbor Freight today. Two 1" pipes should more than equal three 3/4, no?

PaulG78 · 04-24-2010, 01:32 AM

Yes sir, 2-1" = 1.57 sq. in. vs. 3- 3/4" = 1.32 sq. in. Not accounting for wall thickness. Hmmm curious to see what others thoughts will be on the two holes, I like it myself.

McGurk · 04-24-2010, 09:20 AM

If that's your rusty welding, I'd love to see what you can churn in your prime!

BigButzBBQ · 04-24-2010, 09:37 AM

Build is looking great! And a free ball valve! Wow, that is an awesome bonus find.

04-23-2010, 11:25 AM	#1
BruceKWHP Full Fledged Farker Join Date: 01-15-10 Location: Oak Park, CA. Ventura County 91377	UDS Construction Baby Steps ! Does driving 100 miles in an SUV still make it a "free" drum? I hosed it out, started a small brush fire in it (which removed lots of the exterior paint) then took my 90 degree air die grinder with a 3" brown ScotchBrite wheel to the outside to remove the remaining paint. Then I drilled a 3/4" hole with a Unibit for the ball valve (I will be going up to a 1" hole for the 3/4" nipples, 2 for caps one for ball valve) Now I need more parts! Handles, grate(s), water pan? wheels? What are best dimensions for charcoal bin, I need to get some expanded steel to weld one up! Fabrication and BBQ, what a combo! Thanks to Mike on Craigslist: my "free" drum, it had a very thin amber color plastic like thin film lining that burned out easily... the bottom 1/4 had peeled from the shampoo that had been in the drum, strong shampoo or thin liner?? Paint removed and ready for 3/4" nipple installations, temp guage and 3 grille mounting bolts __________________ Bruce B. Building "Robot", my UDS: [URL]http://www.bbqbrethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83312[/URL] UDS "Robot" (the easy smoke oven), CL CharGriller w/sfb, freebie gasser Last edited by BruceKWHP; 04-23-2010 at 04:09 PM.. Reason: re size pics for Bob

04-23-2010, 11:53 AM	#3
Typically On the road to being a farker Join Date: 06-29-09 Location: NJ	oOoOoOo shiny :D __________________ drinkin' every drop from the bottom to the top! 1 UDS

04-23-2010, 11:59 AM	#4
Chavo27 Full Fledged Farker Join Date: 01-10-09 Location: Hartford City, IN	I didn't take mine down to bare metal last time, maybe that's why the paint didn't last too long. I just paint over the old rust lol __________________ where there's smoke there's fire, UDS built April 2009

04-23-2010, 12:44 PM	#5
Captain Dave is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 07-29-09 Location: Beechgrove, Tn. 37018	My basket is 18" around x 8" on 3" stilts. One day I'll attach a shallow pan under the stilts to aid in ash removal. You're doing a fine job so far. Looks real good! By the way you'll need 1" holes for 3/4" pipe nipple. __________________ Thanks for noticing

04-23-2010, 12:51 PM	#6
HeSmellsLikeSmoke Quintessential Chatty Farker Join Date: 04-02-07 Location: Warren, Vermont	If you don't have time to go through the UDS thread itself, it is well worth the time to look and learn from Norco's great post on a tried and true UDS design. http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...1&postcount=86 __________________ Jim - Another transplanted Texan Former KCBS CBJ Large and Medium Big Green Eggs , Black 18.5" WSM, Blue Weber Performer - Stainless, Green Weber OTG Kettle , Brinkmann SnP Pro, and a Stainless UDS. One retired Portable Kitchen grill. Red Thermapen, Maverick ET-73, EdgePro Apex Sharpener. Avatar is the original 1951 Weber Kettle

04-23-2010, 11:33 AM	#2
1FUNVET Babbling Farker Join Date: 04-16-09 Location: Lake Charles La	My charcoal basket is 15"x15" square and 12" tall. Have fun enjoying all the great food that will be coming off it when you are finished.

04-23-2010, 02:03 PM	#8
peppasawce is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 07-08-09 Location: Columbia, Mississippi	Another Drum is delivered...Thanks to the UDS Stork

04-23-2010, 02:16 PM	#9
jswordy is one Smokin' Farker Join Date: 05-13-09 Location: Fayetteville, TN	A 16" Weber bottom grate (Lowe's or HD) makes a good base for one. The pan is a $3 Wally World pizza pan, excellent for catching ashes. Spot welded it to the bolts. You can get expanded steel at Lowe's, etc., but I got mine from a welding shop. He ran it through the roller. Made things easier. Baskets are 16" deep. I can fill them all the way up and smoke for 4 days! Half-fill is good for two 6 to 8-hour smokes or one longer one. The bale from a 5-gallon bucket is the cats ass for a handle. Bend a small notch in the middle of it, and use a cheap fireplace poker hook (mine was $4) in the notch to to lift and lower the basket. Excellent control. Happy building! __________________ Double-Barrel Smoker (DBS); Ugly Drum Smoker (UDS)

04-24-2010, 01:04 AM	#12
BruceKWHP Full Fledged Farker Join Date: 01-15-10 Location: Oak Park, CA. Ventura County 91377	today I drilled out the 3/4" hole to 1 1/4" with a Unibit to take a 1" nipple, then screwed on a 1" Harbor Freight ball valve (free because they were not supposed to be on the shelf, but returned to the main warehouse, he did not want to "sell" it to me... so he just said "it's yours") I welded it up with the wire feed... not too bad a weld considering how rusty I am. Do I put another 1" pipe on the opposite side and cap it for additional airflow on start up? I was going to cap two 3/4 nipples and use a 3/4 ball valve untill I spotted the 1" valve at Harbor Freight today. Two 1" pipes should more than equal three 3/4, no? __________________ Bruce B. Building "Robot", my UDS: [URL]http://www.bbqbrethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83312[/URL] UDS "Robot" (the easy smoke oven), CL CharGriller w/sfb, freebie gasser

04-24-2010, 01:32 AM	#13
PaulG78 On the road to being a farker Join Date: 04-21-10 Location: Jenison, MI	Yes sir, 2-1" = 1.57 sq. in. vs. 3- 3/4" = 1.32 sq. in. Not accounting for wall thickness. Hmmm curious to see what others thoughts will be on the two holes, I like it myself.

04-24-2010, 09:20 AM	#14
McGurk Full Fledged Farker Join Date: 03-26-10 Location: Bloomington, MN	If that's your rusty welding, I'd love to see what you can churn in your prime! __________________ Bad decisions make for good stories!

04-24-2010, 09:37 AM	#15
BigButzBBQ is One Chatty Farker Join Date: 03-16-10 Location: Northwestern Wisconsin	Build is looking great! And a free ball valve! Wow, that is an awesome bonus find. __________________ Some call me... Tom...? 12" Charbroil, SJS, WGA, 22.5 OTG, mUDS, 2 UDS w/AML Wood Art Custom Handles, Pull behind rig , & 1 new rig being built from 500lb tank. Owner of 2 Red Hamilton Beach Instant Read Digital Thermometers! Inventor of: 3BGB! , Shigen! , & Bacone Scotch Egg Sundae! Avatar by Zydecopaws Big Butz BBQ Products

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